An Old Sign Finds a New Home

The name and decorative flourish were stenciled on by my dad.

Well, check another unfinished task off the list.  I finally got around to hanging this sign.  It had been a gift from my dad to my grandfather and lived on the wall next to my grandfather's back door.  Now it lives on my garage, facing the back yard, where I'll see it whenever I go out there.  The other now-finished tasks in this photo are the removal of the unused satellite dish that came with the house and the addition of a guide wire for the Passion Vine growing just out of the frame to the left.  

Getting the garage "ceiling" repaired and the lights installed was like the tsunami hitting the continental shelf and beginning to rise.  There was progress happening before then but each step seemed to take enormous energy.  Since then I've been riding this wave of motivation and getting all sorts of things done, some of them hobby related.  The key has been following the passion whenever possible, choosing a task from a list of options.  None of the steps are particularly difficult on their own but each one paves the way for the next and soon the progress becomes tangible, visible, real.  Momentum is a powerful force.

This one is special.

 

The Rolling Road to Recovery

After the challenges of wiring, and once the new decoder had been ordered, I cut the 4 pads on my soldering board to make 8 pads.  Next I soldered the wires in the tender to the pad.  They're a bit long but I can shorten them once I'm sure the plugs work as expected.  I am making this up as I go along using ideas I've seen elsewhere, tailored to fit this specific situation.

Next I decided to re-install the fireman's side valve gear.  I had left myself a note in the past on a punch list of tasks to shim the left side valve gear.  I wasn't very specific about why it needed shimming or where, so I just reinstalled it to find out.  Turns out it works great as-is.  Huh.  Maybe I fixed that issue years ago and forgot to check it off?  Or maybe it never was an issue.

Next I reinstalled the motor and put the engine on the test rollers - a tool I consider essential for working on steam engines.  Immediately the locomotive reminded me to set the angle of the eccentric, as the wheels wobbled and gahlumped.  After adjusting them the motion was indeed smoother with one major hitch in the gitalong once per revolution.  Hmm.  I'll spare you the troubleshooting thoughts; three of the teeth on the worm gear (that's the one on the axle, not the motor shaft) were chipped.  I briefly worried about finding a replacement until I remembered I had once shimmed the motor to bring the gears closer together.  That did the trick.  See the video below - this smooth low-speed running is on DC, with dry gears and joints.

Confident that the mechanism was working well I turned my attention to the male-half of the wiring.  I trimmed the pins ever so slightly to make that connection as short as possible then soldered wires to each pin.  A little heat shrink tubing and it was ready to install.  Feeding the wires through the holes in the locomotive frame wasn't as challenging as I'd expected though it did take some patient work with tweezers.  I joined the two halves of the connection and reattached the draw bar.

The thing worked well as long as you didn't want to go around any curves.  "Bending" the joint between loco and tender revealed that the friction of the holes on the loco frame was enough to pull the pins out of the sockets on the tender.  So, I tried feeding the wires through only the furthest hole on the locomotive frame, leaving slack beneath the cab.  Voila!  It works, and works well.  I trimmed away some of the loco frame, opening the second holes, and now it fits almost as if it was designed to be that way.  I'll need to leave a little slack in the wires between the motor and the backhead, but there's room for that.

 

With that established I can move on to completing the detail work on the sides of the firebox and in the cab.  That'll be the subject of the next post. 

 

 

Wiring Nightmares Can Come True

Wiring is not my favorite aspect of this hobby.  I love the look of bright locomotive headlights and the control available through DCC, and yet despite having enjoyed three years of high school electronics I just don't care for the tasks of cutting and stripping and soldering tiny wires.  I suspect it has to do with the unknown unknowns, that is, I don't know what might go wrong especially since half the time I'm doing something unorthodox.  

These days decoders and LEDs are drop-in or plug-and-play and that's fine for many modern locomotives.  However, vintage 1950 Mantua locomotives are a different matter altogether and adding DCC to such a critter requires ingenuity and creativity, math and formulas and even arcane knowledge.  Perhaps even live animal sacrifice, but I haven't quite reached that level of desperation....yet.

First off, here's what went well.  I managed to get 6 wires prepped and soldered to SIPP sockets.  Next I mounted these under the tender floor, feeding the wires up into the tender through the recently enlarged holes.  At this point I decided I'd hook up the rear light and see how that looked.  I did the calculations to determine the correct resistor value, soldered the resistor to the yellow wire and soldered this to one wire of the light.  I soldered the other wire from the light to the common blue wire pad in the tender.  So far so good. 

Then I switched on the power.

The bulb began to flicker.  Not blink - I know that's a fail safe warning that there's a short somewhere - but flicker randomly like a candle.

I didn't get a picture of the flickering bulb.  Enjoy this lovely image of the moon at sunset instead.

I made sure I had dialed in the loco address, had it in reverse, and had the light on.  Still flickering.  I could turn it off with F0, the lighting function, but whenever I'd turn it back on it would flicker.  I tried adjusting the CVs in case somehow from the factory it came set with that option but no, so I eventually just reset the decoder using CV8.  Now the light wouldn't come on at all.  Well, crap. 

I wondered if somehow I had miscalculated the resistor value, so I once again stuck my meter leads on the blue and white wires.  Huh...now I have 13.4 volts...when the F0 is OFF, and 7.3 volts when it is ON.  I had calculated the resistor value based on 13.4.  Maybe that was too much?  No, the bulb flickered, and a reading of 13.4 would make sense based on typical AC track voltage brought down to DC by the decoder.

I baked this apple pie for Thanksgiving with fruit from our front yard.  My first lattice top, made with Gluten Free crust!  Much nicer to look at than nasty old wiring and a troublesome decoder.

SO, Next I set up a test bulb on a beadboard with a 220 ohm resistor for safety, assuming the 7.3 volts might be right, but also hedging my bets that the 13.4 might be right.  Could blow the bulb but not likely.  This proved my fears.  The bulb burned brightly on the blue and white wires (forward headlight function), but only when the F0 was OFF.

The rear light was still not even glowing unless I caused a short between the blue and white wires...and then only for a brief moment.  Rolling the tender seemed to stop it.  Then the forward test bulb came on when F0 was ON, but dimly, and was bright again when F0 was OFF.

By now I my head was well and truly spinning. 

This is my Mom's kitten, Claire, sitting with our dog Ellie.  They're friends.

Seeking advice online only resulted in more confusion.  I'm pretty convinced the decoder isn't working as it should unless I'm missing something.  It IS 20 years old, at least, though it was never used in that time except to hook it up to the tender.  I probably blew it somehow or I got a lemon, either way, I'm done messing with it.  It has been removed and will be relegated to the someday-maybe bin in the electronics box.  Who knows, the motor control might still work, in which case it could be used for an animation element.

I have ordered a TCS KAM4 LED - that is Train Control Systems' Keep-Alive Mobile 4 decoder set up for LEDs without having to use any additional resistors.  I'm going to modify my solder pad to have 8 individual pads instead of 4...I mean, what was I thinking 20 years ago?  Why not just cut another groove and solder ALL the wires to the pad instead of bundling some with heat-shrink tubing?  Anyway, in the mean time I'm going to continue my adventures in electronics by installing the locomotive half of things, including a two-pin connector for the front light so I can separate the shell without breaking tiny wires.

Updates as they happen.  Thanks for reading. 

 

 

The Return of the Shifter

The time has come, at long last, to finish the Mantua Shifter.  I began rebuilding this little metal monster in 2002 or thereabouts and have tinkered with it occasionally over the years.  Why has it taken me this long?  I have some thoughts about that and will share them in an upcoming post once they've had time to mellow and mature.  Suffice it to say I'm committing to completing this project NOW before beginning any other model railroad project.

 

Obligatory un-boxing shot.  Former notes, parts packaging and bits.

The first step was assessing the state of things and determining an order of operations.  The tender is completely detailed at this point unless I decide to add any other little bits, minus the coal, of course.  The locomotive still needs some piping beneath the cab and backhead details added.  That's the easy bit, however.  The real challenge is under the hood, er, deck plate.

I'm not entirely sure what I was thinking when I drilled holes in the locomotive and tender frames for routing the wiring.  The two holes - one on each side - were only large enough for one wire each.  To wire the headlight and motor will require four wires, and if I want any power from the loco to get back to the decoder in the tender that'll take two more.  (I say IF, because I might be able to get by with only the tender trucks for pickup and a keep-alive circuit on the decoder, but that's still to be determined).

So the first order of business was enlarging those holes.  Here's the result after a few minutes with a Dremel, a sharp drill bit and some cutting oil:

The front tender truck has been pushed back in order to enlarge the holes behind the white strips.

These holes will sit between the firebox sides and the motor.  Just enough room...I hope.

The wires pass beneath the deck plate through these two holes, beneath the brake cylinders.

 
The metal debris has been cleaned from the bench and I've begun setting up for the next step, determining the resistance for the front and tender lights.  After that I'll begin cutting wire and soldering to connectors; not my favorite task, but essential.

 

The Load's the Thing

In September of 1952 Model Railroader magazine published an article by George Allen titled "Spindletop No. 4".  This article describes in great detail how to build an oil well pumping rig, delicate-looking tower and pump house with notes on how to make it operate.  George drew the plans and built his rig based on actual plans loaned to him - for one night! - from a friend in the engineering department of an oil company.  Naturally he took some liberties for the sake of simplicity without sacrificing all of the detail.  He was also limited by the materials available to the average modeler of the time; card, metal and wood.

Printed on page 24 is this diagram:

Now look at this load:

I know next to nothing about the origins of this flat car.  However, I can say with confidence that the dimensions of the load are identical to the George Allen drawing.  The large counterweights and the axle between them are free to move, sliding laterally in the motor mount, and would no doubt revolve as intended if not for the chain holding them down.  The load is made from wood, paper and metal, just as the article instructs.

Figuring that out was the easy part.  The rest of the car...there's the challenge.  It is obviously scratchbuilt with painted lettering.  The large metal center sill matches the one used on the Suydam reefer I just wrote about in the previous post, but that's the only similarity as Suydam offered no similar kit.  The other commercial detail on the car are the end sills.  Everything else is built up from wood and metal, including the bolsters, stake pockets and underframe cross members.

Being primarily wood with only the center sill and trucks to provide any weight, the car was very light.  Also, the trucks weren't mounted exactly on the car center line.  I was able to fix the alignment issue when I replaced the wood bolsters with metal castings.  For the weight I beat a hunk of old lead into less than 1/16" thin sheets to add some weight to the car.  The final bit of weight came from a metal K brake cylinder I used to replace the original plastic one.  In total the car now weights just shy of 3 ounces, about an ounce and half away from the NMRA Recommended Practice, but enough to keep it on the track without any trouble, so far.

As for a prototype, I found that the T&NO did roster flat cars in the 23xxx range...but the only examples I could find were older truss rod cars.  A similar T&NO design with fishbelly center sill was rostered in the 22xxx range, so somewhere in between may lay the truth.  And what about the pumps?  The first producing onshore oil well in Florida came online in 1943, a bit later than my era.  However, a load such as this moving down through the state on its way to a port for shipment is plausible.  I'm just pleased to be able to include a scratchbuilt car with such a beautifully constructed load in my fleet.

 

Eggs a la Ed Lee

Oh, this car has been on the bench way too long.  That delay has nothing to do with the car itself, rather the good things happening in the rest of my life that keep getting in the way of model railroading.  Still, I'm glad to see it finished and rolling down the track.  Here's the story.

This freezer, NADX 6002, in service of the Pacific Egg Producers of Seattle, is built from 'An "Ed Lee" Kit', from E. Suydam & Co of Duarte, California.  What brings this kit to my bench is its presence on John Allen's Gorre & Daphetid.  Yep, another "Heritage Fleet"car.

NADX 6002 seen on the G&D in May, 1963

I began this car in July - almost exactly four months ago.  I did not deviate far from the kit instructions, only adding weight, backdating the air brakes, and changing a few minor details.  I've got a great prototype image of this car in Hendrickson & Kaminski's Billboard Reefer book.  Suydam got most of the details correct but I took the opportunity to add missing corner straps and reduce the number of grab irons on the sides and ends.

What's funny is that while Suydam did well in this regard, they missed one "colorful" detail, that is, the PEP Eggs banner should be royal blue.  An eBay search turned up some original blueprints for the car with painting instructions and the blue color is noted.  I very carefully added some blue paint to mine and it looks good from 3 feet away.  Red Ball got the color right but has too many hinges and grabs on their NADX 6001.  Likewise Train Miniature's plastic version, NADX 6003 (though in their defense, all of their reefers used the same body).  I mention the hinges because that was a key ingredient to identifying the maker of John's car.  

Sometimes I wonder where the manufacturers get their information and why they make some design choices that don't match the car itself.  It may be clear they're working from an image of the car or even drawings as some claim, and yet, they choose to include the wrong number of hinges on the door.  Go figure.  I can come up with some plausible reasons, but they'd only be guesses.  One is that Suydam was using a black and white photo as reference.  Who knows.

Finally I decided to change the brake detail in order to run this car on my late 20s era railroad.  I took my weathering cues from John's car but toned it down slightly.  The Ed Lee/Suydam kit was fun to build and follows the classic construction methods of kits from this era involving drilling, cutting, shaping, painting, etc.  There's a sublime satisfaction I get from taking a box of parts and turning it into a rolling freight car.  I'm happy with how it turned out and can now run another car "from the G&D" on my railroad.

Let There Be ... Garage Lighting!

This post is a follow-up to my latest garage update.  Since then I've installed new lights inside and out, and have rearranged the room to better accommodate its multiple functions.

To say I'm chuffed about how this lighting solution turned out is an understatement.  A special thanks goes to my retired electrician friend for guiding me through the work step by step.  The pendants I selected were the closest thing I could find to what would have been used in the 30s, without taking out a loan for replicas.  The gooseneck fixture used above the door is likely original to the structure or from the same era.  The clue there was the cloth-coated wire found in the fixture, now replaced with safe, modern wire, properly installed.  Oh, and yes, the switch in the house does indeed operate the gooseneck light on the garage; it has already proved useful at night in the driveway.

These pictures give an idea of the light output, including one florescent fixture I kept plugged in for now; they really aren't necessary anymore but hanging there is a good place to store them until I find a new home for them.  There's still much decluttering to do though some of the stuff near the garage door has already left the building, having been donated to local thrift stores.  I anticipate spending the next two years reducing and relocating excess stuff.  At that time, perhaps before, I may be able to put some sort of test track or loop for running the trains that require a larger radius than my 4x6 layout can provide.  Still, that's a ways away and who knows what will happen in the mean time.