...in which our blogger attempts to bend styrene sheet and glue dissimilar materials together.
Having successfully beveled the posts of the ornate arched trellis castings from Scale Structures Limited, and finished the fancy brickwork on the facade, it was time to assemble this veranda. First, I needed to determine exactly how and where this veranda would fit on the structure. I had a pretty good idea that the whole thing would fit between the brick pillars on the wall. After gluing the castings together and offering them up to the wall, this proved to be the case - exactly so.
 |
| The castings assembled, using a straight edge and spacer for alignment. |
Next it was on to the deck. Rather conveniently the kit has a line of brick protruding from the base of the upper wall that would act as a good ledger. A quick measurement of the available vertical space between this brick and the storefront below gave me what I needed to begin constructing the deck.
In true kitmingling fashion I used material from one of donor kits; in this case, the scribed wood floor from the SS Ltd Gazebo. I measured the assembled castings and cut the sheet to fit. I pulled some scale lumber from my supplies and created a framework on approximately two foot centers, attaching it to the scribed sheet with wood glue.
Once the glue had set, I attached the deck to the lattice using gel superglue. I find this works best when gluing wood to metal, especially when there may be a gap to fill. The gel doesn't absorb into the wood as quickly as a lower viscosity glue, allowing it time to bond to both surfaces despite their different porosity.
Next, the roof. The prototype is standing seam metal, and I happen to have some styrene "metal" roofing. But the prototype is also gracefully curved and my styrene is thick. After a little research I decided to try the hot water method for softening the styrene. This worked well enough after some grunting and coaxing.
The other challenge I faced with this roof was creating the ornate rafter tails. Yes, Tichy makes some, but I don't have them and didn't want to order any and potentially stall the project while I wait for them to arrive. I decided to try "rolling my own" so to speak by taping scale 2x4s together and gently shaping a profile on one end using files and sanding sticks. I'm pleased with the results though I'm not sure how visible this will be once the veranda is painted. It may just be one small detail that adds to the overall ornate feel.
I measured and marked the underside of the roof and glued the styrene rafters to it using Tamiya extra thin styrene cement. I love this stuff for bonding styrene to itself. It goes tacky almost immediately on application and bonds quickly. This let me apply each rafter at the front edge the go back and gently bend the rafters to the curve of the roof. The fast acting glue made this a quick and painless process.
To finish the roof I cut and wedges to fit in each end between the curved roof and the top of the arched lattice parts. On the prototype this is lattice, however, since my ornate posts include lattice already, I decided to use the same v-groove siding as the wooden extension, but running vertically. I glue the standing seams into the provided grooves on the styrene roof panel and after some trimming and sanding the roof was complete.
I used the same gel superglue to attach the roof to the posts, double checking the alignment to the wall. Once the veranda is attached I'll add a strip of material as flashing, though I'm pleased to say there's no real gap to hide in this case. I'll be repeating the same steps on the side porch roof, but first, I need to do something about the storefront doors. That'll be the subject of the next post.
 |
| The completed veranda set in place (image rotated). |
