Trail Drive Nearing Completion

 

Next stop, WEATHERING!  The freezers are ready to roll, the cabeese still need window glass but won't get it until the weathering has been applied, and the steamer will receive a bell cord and whistle cord after weathering.  Note the coal load in the tender.  I will be using multiple techniques; brush painting, air brushing, and adhesive powders, as required, to get the look I'm after.  I may also include a few other cars that need weathering, or maybe not.  We'll see.

Caboose Coupler Conundrum - Solved!

Back when I began converting these Model Power cabeese into more detailed models I ran into a conundrum; how to mount couplers.  In January of 2018 I determined I'd need to hog out the old coupler box entirely and sheath the platform surface with styrene, distressed to resemble wood planks.  Fine.  But that doesn't leave anything for a screw to bite into in order to attach the coupler box.  

Coupler slot modifications from January 2018

Now I know what you're thinking - why not just glue the box in place.  I considered it, but I really prefer to be able to unscrew the box to access the coupler and spring plate in case either or both are damaged, heaven forbid.  To do so if it had been glued in place would mean potentially damaging the platform detail above, then having to glue in the replacement, and I could just imagine that going badly.

The obvious solution was to glue the top plate of the coupler box in place, and attach the lower half by screwing it to the post on the upper half.  The only problem was finding a screw of the right size.  The largest tap I own is for a 2-56 screw, and that slides right through the coupler hole.  I had slightly larger screws but no tap...but perhaps I could just force them to "self-tap" into the soft plastic of the coupler box...

 

NEVER throw away potentially useful screws!

Sure enough, it worked.  The old Atlas switch machine screws tapped themselves easily into the coupler boxes without cracking or distorting the plastic.  Only about 1/16 of an inch needed to be snipped away and my Xurons made quick work of that followed by a few swipes of a needle file.  A couple tiny drops of super glue and voila, couplers installed.

Rolling Streak

 

This image illustrates the progress on the caboose ladder platforms, the little stickey-outey bit next to the roof walk near the end of the roof over the platform.  Because of the curve of the roof, I laid one support on its flatter side and the other on its narrow edge.  This doesn't entirely level the planks laid on top, but comes close enough.  

As you can probably guess from the above image, I didn't make my deadline of completing a "Trail Drive" by Epiphany (January 6).  But that's okay.  In fact, I'm really pleased with my progress.  Even more than that, I'm very happy about the building streak I've been on.  Since I started this emphasis back 12 days before Christmas, I've sat at my workbench and done something with a model nearly every day.

I've been a promoter of good habits and habit formation for several years, since I first read Charles Duhigg's book on habits and learned of Dr. B.J. Fogg's Tiny Habits method.  I truly believe good habits are a key to happiness and productivity and in our current lockdown, sanity.  So rather than being disappointed that I didn't meet my target date, I am quite chuffed to have reconnected with my hobby in such a consistent way.  It is a touchstone of security at home amidst the shifting sands and changing currents of the outside world.

That's How It's Done!

Making steady progress on the Trail Drive to Christmas challenge I set for myself, I turned my attention once again to the cabeese.  A few days back I solved the problem of how to keep the floor removable without wrecking the end ladders.  Just after that I worked on the freezers, getting them primed.  Once again I looked to the cabeese and contemplated the roof walks...oh.  Oh no.  I had forgotten that I needed styrene strip.  Actually, I had remembered and ordered some from a vendor months ago only to have them ship me the wrong product by mistake.  I forgot that I was going to look for more.

To eBay and quick!  A search turned up a seller with not only the 1x6 I like to use, but the 2x3 bracing AND a thing I never knew existed, Evergreen Scale Models ladder "kit".  Merry Christmas indeed!  What?  It's on sale with free shipping?  Happy New Year!  I honestly expected it to take a while, what with holiday shipping and the whole viral disruption slowing down the post, but no, here 'tis, on Christmas Eve.

I almost didn't recognize the package because the seller did it right.  Really right.  Observe:

Each packet taped, top bottom and sides, to a stiff cardboard backing and to each other, respectively.  All inserted into a bubble mailer envelope.

It doesn't always work like this.  I have my eBay horror stories as well, but it is nice when it turns out better than expected.  May your Christmas be filled with pleasant surprises and your New Year with results that surpass expectations!

Caboose Solution - Finally!

I've been stewing over this for a while.  The last progress I made on this pair of cabeese was back in March when I worked on the cupola windows.  I say "stewing" specifically, because I really wasn't applying any critical faculties to the problem.  But I'm getting ahead of myself.

The problem is was, how to take the dadgum thing apart once the end ladders were attached.  You see, on the donor model the end ladders were crudely "attached" to the roof by friction, being inserted into two slots on the roof.  Likewise they were press fit along with the handrails into the end beam.  But I had to go an get these gorgeous brass ladder kits from SS Ltd with graceful arching extensions that reach up and over the roof, and must be securely attached to both roof and platform, somehow.

In order to remove the body (roof and walls) from the underframe (floor and end platforms) I'd need to either attach the ladder permanently to the roof and not-permanently to the platform, or permanently to the platform and bend it out of the way if I take the body off the floor.  Ugh.  

To solve the problem I sat and thought about it.  No distractions, no devices, just cold logic.  And, here's what I came up with:

I simply sawed the end platforms off of the underframe/floor.  In the image above you can see one platform attached* to the body on the end wall, the remainder of the floor and the other platform laying on the miter box.

Next up is to attach some styrene blocks into the corners of the shell, then drill and tap for screws to hold the underframe in place.  I may never add interiors to these cars but I may add lighting.  But in the interest of getting finished cars that run vs. unfinished cars laying in a box that will someday have lights, I am choosing this option to allow for future upgrades.

*Bonus tip - I spent too much time here messing with the Testors plastic cement, bits of reinforcing styrene, etc., to get a solid bond that never solidified.  Not the cement's fault, but the cheap plastic used on the donor model.  Use super glue (cyanoacrylate) instead.  A few dots of CA, 60 seconds holding the parts together, and it is rock solid.

Twelve Days Trail Drive!

Howdy Pardners!  Set a spell - this may take some time.

No, I've not gone Quarantine Crazy, I'm channeling my inner cowboy.  One of my earliest memories as a child was playing a card game with my mom called "Trail Drive".  The cards were pictures of cowboys, cattle, chuck wagons, rustlers and sheriffs.  The game was simple - designed for young children - but I remember the vividly colored characters, and getting frustrated losing.  Good times.  

Anyway, it's the concept of the game I'm referring to here.  To get a trail drive started you needed a chuck wagon and two cowboys in your hand.  After that you collected cattle, as many as you could - but watch out - a rustler could stop the drive and you'd be stuck until you were dealt a sheriff.  The concept of needing a few elements to get started before expanding is simple, but crucial to the game.

At the same time I've been reading through Model Railroader back-issues from the '40s.  It seems many model rails would write in describing their pikes and listing off their rolling stock and stable of locomotives.  There was a sense of early beginnings that was palpable in these letters.  Usually there was an indication that the budding magnate had plans to purchase a certain engine or set of passenger equipment, etc. to increase the fun, of course.  There were also mentions of seeking a land grant from the spouse to extend the road, but I want to focus on the equipment.

I view my current situation as a bit of a Trail Drive game.  Most of the trains from my modular club days are packed away because I've narrowed my focus and scope down to a relatively small railroad setting.  Physically I've limited myself to a 4'x6' pike with the 2' aisle space all around (see my post Garage Railroad Plan for more thoughts on this choice).

But the limitation is also applied to locomotives and rolling stock.  I purchased my 2-6-0 and began modifying it in order to have a unique, fine-running locomotive.  Likewise I had purchased long before the mogul a pair of cabeese with parts to customize them as well.  See where this is heading, pardner?  The rolling stock - even if they're not stock cars - are the cattle, so to speak, while the engine and hacks are the chuck wagon and cowboys (you decide which is which - I'll carry the analogy only so far).

Now I've been working on these cabeese and this locomotive for a while.  I started the caboose project back in Washington just over four years ago.  The engine has been running well but recently I decided to deal with the leaning cylinders that have been bothering me, as well as get a coal load in the tender...and tick the boxes on the remaining details like the bell and whistle cords.

Technically the twelve days of Christmas run from the 25th to Epiphany on the 6th of January.  But I'm looking at twelve days UNTIL Christmas and feeling like I might just be able to get a Trail Drive going with my Mogul, the Cabeese, and this here pair of freezers I've been building.  Can I do it?  With parts to add, paint to dry, decals, maybe some weathering...hmmm...as long as no rustlers show up I may just pull it off.

When Two Become One

Or, when the materials speak, listen.

I had planned to use the little narrow windows from the Tichy Work Car Windows set to replace the narrow side windows in the cupolas.  I had thought the narrow Tichy window frames would work, but when turned vertically they weren't as tall as the square window frames on the front and back of the cupola.  However, included in the assortment were wide two-panel windows.  I held one window against the cupola side and immediately knew I had to use it. 

The narrow window openings had bothered me since I made them, and I really didn't have a good solution.   Something about the relative size or placement was off and I couldn't figure out what bugged me, I just knew I didn't like it.  So when the narrow Tichy windows didn't make it better, I was doubly discouraged at that point.  But my displeasure turned to satisfaction when I put the long, wide windows in place.

The actual fix was simple.  I cut out the center section between the two narrow windows, then added scale 2x4 strips to the sides.  I'm going to say that the new frame is a slider, and my train crew will be pleased to be able to open that window and get a breeze through the cupola rolling down the tracks in central Florida.

When Scratch Isn't Up To

Case in point, these windows.  I tried to make my own window frames but I wasn't happy with the results.  I was happy with the overall shape and size of the cupola itself.  Enter Tichy Train Group's Work Car Windows Assortment, part number 8206.  I have dry-fit one window to test the fit and sure enough, I couldn't have fit it better if I had planned it that way.  There are smaller windows in the set and they should likewise work just fine for the narrow side windows.  Here's the kicker - they come with glazing!

Will I attempt to scratchbuild window frames again in the future?  Sure, if necessary, or maybe even just for fun.  But will I let it stall a project as long as this attempt did?  No sir.  If Tichy had not made these excellent window frame inserts, I would have likely found suitable kitbash parts from some donor cabeese.  The caboose is a signature piece of rolling stock for any steam era railroad and as a freelancer, I believe it is even more important that I'm happy with the result.

A Sad View from the Rear End

Not sure if the NorthWestern Pacific ever carried paying passengers in their cabeese, but on this day there are a few.  The rear brakeman doesn't seem to mind as he wets his whistle. 

According to the eloquent commentary of Beebe and Clegg, Mixed Train Daily, at a time when short lines were still carrying passengers in their crummies and the practice was still somewhat routine, riders would chat with the crew and enjoy the trip.  It may have been a special occasion that brought country folk into town by rail and people used it as an opportunity to gossip and gab.   But sadly, these poor people on this day are too distracted by their techno-toys to care that they are on a train, in a caboose no less, with other folks. 

 

These parents sat self absorbed in a tiny virtual world while their kids gleefully chattered away in the cupola.  My own youngest son made fast friends with a kiddo he'd never met while I stood down in the aisle below in case the train should rock and he should fall.  After his seat-mate got down mid-ride, I climbed up and joined him.  It was my first ride in a cupola too.  I will have great memories of that ride.  The other adults, well, I suppose they enjoyed whatever it was they were doing....it wasn't making memories to last a lifetime.