A Conversation on the Veranda

As the major construction on the Ensminger Building draws to a close the focus shifts to the details.  The structure will have only the barest hint of an interior in the storefront but there are still two major areas to include details; the photo studio and the veranda.  The photo studio windows allow a viewer to peer down into the room so I think that's a prime location for a mini scene.  However, I'm going to hold off on that scene for now and address the veranda first.  

Before I can attach the veranda to the front of the structure I needed to add any details that will live there, as getting them in place once it is attached would be akin to building a ship in a bottle.  After looking through my figures and details I found a set of chairs along with a round table, three figures and a spittoon.  I also found an oil lamp sconce to mount on the wall.

The chairs were missing their legs so I robbed Peter to pay Paul and borrowed some legs from another, simpler set of chairs.  Here they are after being repaired, waiting on the glue to cure fully before painting.  Not sure why the one fellow is face down.  Maybe he didn't want to feel left out.  The men in the chair were glued in when I got the details, years ago.

After painting the legs a close-enough color I carefully glued the details onto the veranda.  I also drilled a hole in the wall and mounted the lamp sconce.  As neat as it would be to make this a working light, I'm not convinced it would be worth the effort so for now - and likely for all time - it remains as is.  The folks on the porch will be somewhat illuminated by the interior light shining through the windows.

The figures around the table and the leaning man were all part of a detailed pool hall structure I purchased years ago.  I still have plans for a billiards parlor on this layout but these fellows won't be in it.  They are now having a conversation on the veranda of the Ensminger Building.  I wonder what they're discussing...

Next, window treatments, a base and roof details.  Not sure how much of that will make it to a blog post, as I'm getting new windows next week in the real world and that process might just turn the house upside down for a while.  Happy modeling, and thanks for reading.

 

The Back Door and The Signs, with special guest, AI

I felt bad for the back wall of the Candy Shop after talking it up in the previous post but not sharing an image.  So, I took a picture of the wall to show its concrete stoop and details as well as a couple close-up shots of the posters.  The little vent fan on the wall is from Vector Cut, sadly, now out of production.  The rest are metal castings of unknown origin.

Why wasn't this included in the kit? (and why isn't the door inset?)

You can still get coffee at the candy shop.  The little face is a period-accurate election poster.

The roof was stippled but painting that brick was a back-and-forth process that took forever.

But I'm burying the lead here...after a conversation with Jim at 30 Squares I decided to play around with AI to generate a sign.  I used Canva, as it was the first search result returned.  The process was super easy, turning text into an image.  Here's the prompt I used:

Rooftop Sign for a 1920s business called the "Lemon Drop Candy Shop" featuring a large lemon with leaves and the text "Lemon Drop Candy Shop" in a period appropriate typeface

Here are the results that I liked best:

WOW.  I had thought I'd get a graphic, not a photo-realistic image.  But boy am I glad I didn't get what I expected.  Novelty architecture really became popular in the 1920s and 30s and these signs are a nod to that style, perfect for my railroad's era.  It wouldn't be too hard to make a big lemon out of Milliput along with some stylized leaves.  The large panel means the text could be used on both sides for a ridge-line sign.  I've got some raised styrene letters, though I might search around for a different typeface for variety's sake.  

This is exciting.  Happy modeling, and thanks for reading.

 

From Coffee to Candy

This is a post I've been waiting to make and the reason may be more interesting than the result.  You see, for a short while I worked remotely for Wm. K. Walthers, Inc. as a copywriter.  One of my tasks was writing kit instructions, and this kit is "one of mine".  Since I live in California and Walthers' headquarters is in Wisconsin, I was sent pre-production samples in order to assemble them and get a feel for any difficulties or challenges a modeler might have when assembling the kits.

I completed this handsome little building almost exactly one year ago, however the kit wasn't available to purchase until recently so I had to sit on the pictures until then.  Since this structure could easily fit into my 1920's era I decided to complete it and add some interior detail, just for fun.  The multi-pane windows means much of that detail won't be visible, even when lit, but I have left the roof removable - easily done in this kit due to the one-piece roof - so that the interior can be shown to visitors.  

I added a little concrete pad to the rear entrance (not shown) and used it as a place for adding exterior details such as a trash can, bottles, etc.  I'm not sure why it wasn't included in the kit as the door sits high above the foundation otherwise.  My sample didn't come with any signs but I believe the kit does; I chose a few from my stock that work for my interpretation of the structure.  As marketed by Walthers it is a coffee shop, however, it could easily be repurposed for any number of uses.  I chose to make mine a candy shop.  Ocala had one back in the old days called the "Candy Kitchen".  When I get around to making a sign for mine it will be the "Lemon Drop Candy Shop", to help anchor it in Florida.

The interior was made mostly from scratch, with only the sink, chairs, fruit basket and a few cans on the shelves from castings.  I'm most proud of the glass case and the scale on the counter.  The scale is a replica of a "Toledo" type counter scale, a detail I imagined would be useful in a candy shop.  I don't know if they came in red, but I like it and it stands out.  The "tile" floor is made from the interior pattern on a security envelope; I collect these for just this sort of purpose.  The colored plates under the candy in the case are cut from a printed cereal box; they're the color registry circles for the print inks.  The candy is simply construction paper cut into bits.  

Without going into the details, the copywriter position at Walthers was eliminated and we amicably parted ways last summer.  However, during my time there I was sent a small pile of kit samples and no doubt more of these will make their way onto the layout - Lee's Grocery is the next one to be used as the Ensminger building, though I didn't write the instructions for that kit...why I have that kit is a different story for another time.  I'm still debating if the Candy Shop will have a home at Ocala Springs or elsewhere.  I'm just glad I can finally blog about it here.  Thanks for reading.

Prime Time

Our winter warm snap provided a window in which I could prime the Shifter.  Prior to priming I repaired a few fallen details (Super Glue wasn't so super after all...) and Dremel'd out a bit more space in the tender for the new decoder.  I masked headlights, motor, electrical connections and a few other places, then set the boiler on a home made stand.  The other parts I sprayed on a turntable or held by the tape.  The Tamiya Fine Surface Primer, Gray, laid down well and smoothly.  That's a big worry off my mind!  Up next...will I airbrush the black or paint by hand?  We'll see.

 

Golden Time

Upon returning from an inspiring visit to the California State Railroad Museum, I spent a lovely vacation day adding bits to The Shifter.  It took the whole day, in a way, because I'd add a bit then step away to let the glue cure before adding the next bit, waiting, adding another, and so on.  The process is enjoyable, especially when all the parts are at hand and ready to install.

There are still a few bits to add.  Careful observers may notice that at some point in the sequence one of the pop valves falls off the auxiliary turret - not to worry, I have it and will reattach it along with the whistle.  There's also one pipe to run from the engineer's side tank back to the cab, and I need to decide if I want to run piping for the air hoses beyond the pilot.  Otherwise, the detailing is done...well...except for adding the headlight but that's more about the wiring and getting a little in-line plug installed inside the boiler.  That's next.

cab seats

piping from turret to injectors

piping from turret to compressor

"water glass" piping

gauges, before moving, and brake stand

gauges after moving and quadrant

injector control rods

injector water feed line and overflow with diffuser

 

Another Use for Weldbond

Moving ahead with the Shifter, I turned my attention to the LEDs.  I selected two 0804 SMD LEDs, pre-wired, that I had purchased from WEHONEST on eBay.  Since the headlight housings are metal castings I needed to insulate the back of the LED where the 30 gauge wires are soldered in order to prevent a short circuit.  To do this I used two generous coatings of Weldbond adhesive.  I'll use the same adhesive to hold the LEDs in place before soldering them to the appropriate wires in the locomotive and tender.

 

Two Words - Train Master

A Trainmaster is a person in charge of the movement of trains in a division or subdivision of a railroad.  A Train Master is a diesel locomotive, designated H24-66, built by the Fairbanks-Morse company.  Two Words.  Train Master.

This story began decades ago, long before The Shifter.  Facing the big Five-Oh soon I decided to revisit some old projects.  This quickly rose to the top of the list.  Look for more posts about this pair of locomotives in the next few months.

 

Drug Store Saga, Part III

Here's the belated but as-promised continuation of the Scale Structures Limited Drug Store project.  Let's start around back:

 
The windows and doors in this image are merely set in place for now to avoid dings while heavier construction continues.  The vertical gaps will be covered by drain pipes with scuppers near the top and the horizontal line will be hidden by a wide sign attached to the wall.  In this way the wall can remain removable to access wiring and details inside the building's second and third floors.  I had thought I might use magnets to hold the wall in place but a simpler solution will be sticky wax or even double sided tape.  Below, the view with wall removed:

Access granted.  You may proceed with detailing.

The above image shows the structure from beneath being braced before the brick had been applied.  I have since broken one joint in order to "straighten" one wall.  Just like real house construction, there's no such thing as a truly straight wall.  Everything must be shimmed and even then it doesn't quite make it true, plumb or square but in the end it looks pretty good.  More on shimming and imperfection in the next post where I discuss the fancy trim. <shudder>.

I'll close this post with an image I shared on Instagram recently.  I'm quite happy with how this little bar turned out.  The actual serving counter is complete as well but isn't shown here.  Still need to make bar stools and a display stand for the middle of the room but otherwise the detailing for the interior is coming along nicely.  Oh and of course it needs paint - that should go without saying but I'll mention it to be clear.  Probably a wood stain, but we'll see.

Drug Store Saga, Part II

Stone paper overlay applied

Work continues on the Drug Store and in fact has progressed far beyond these images.  However this is a good place to make a few notes. This stone and brick paper has been a real challenge to work with.  First, the paint/primer I had sprayed on didn't stick.  After scraping it away I sanded the texture and applied a matte varnish.  So far this second application of paint has stuck, though where the paper has been bent around the bay window the cracks in the surface show the orange color of the paper beneath.  Still not happy with the color of the stone work...oil wash didn't work as expected, and a drybrush helped, but I may play around with it a bit more.  We'll see.

Apartment stoop in place - first castings installed!

This doorway had to be installed before any more work could continue so that I could take measurements and lay out the Drug Store furniture.  The stoop steps and door are metal castings which, like the rest, I had primed with good old rattle-can gray.  However I had forgotten that this particular can is particularly "sticky" when dry, taking at least a week to really cure.  Not sure why, it just is.  Anyway, it means that when I spray one side of a casting, let it "dry" a few hours then flip it to spray the other side, the primer sticks equally as well to the parts tray as it does to the parts, often pulling away.  Ugh.

Mysterious explosion at drug store leaves only cabinets standing.

 
Finally, the layout of the Drug Store interior has been decided.  A mirrored bar will be built along one wall with a counter in front, on which the cash register will sit.  The two large cabinets will be merged into one and will occupy the other wall along with the door to the back room.  A small display case will sit in front of one of the large windows.  This is about all I can fit in and that's fine.  I've cut the mirrored glass from a dollar store handheld mirror using a glass scoring tool, something I'd never done before.  

Up next, the solution to the removable wall, bracing, and more.  Thanks for reading.

Details and Story Telling - NMRBO23

While this year's diorama for the National Model Railroad Build Off was designed with a broader picture and clear 'front' view in mind, there was still great emphasis placed on detailed scenes that contribute to the overall story.  That narrative is one of leisure in the "winter paradise" that was Florida of the 1920s, when tourists flocked to the state to escape the cold snowy north and play in the sun.  Of course there were residents there too and they found ways to relax and enjoy the day.  Below are some close-ups of scenes that tell the story:

Most of this year's figures were already painted, including the garden gnomes - accurate for the 1920s, actually - but I did paint a few figures and details.  I also built three vehicles, two from Jordan Miniatures and one from Sylvan, confusingly a 'Jordan' roadster.  I'm most pleased with finding a new job for Ma Spumoni; instead of hanging laundry she's picking oranges.  The fellow in the rowboat was originally going to be fishing.  Before that the rowboat was going to be a scratchbuilt steam launch or pleasure craft such as would be seen at that time.  But time ran out for adding more, and space got compressed at the waterfront so the steam launch was replaced with the rowboat, a metal casting.  The man snoozing in the boat was marketed as a 'hobo' but in this case he's just a fellow out relaxing on the water...for the moment.

Burma Shave Signs

 

The Burma Shave company used to make roadside signs to advertise their shave cream.  These were placed along the road in a sequence, inviting motorists to read their message as they drove by.  First appearing in 1927, the signs were continually updated with new jingles through 1963.  I model the late 1920s and so a set of Burma Shave signs just barely fits into my era.  

I've been considering adding a set to my National Model Railroad Build Off 2023 diorama but have yet to decide if I'll include one.  It is the sort of detail that may or may not fit depending on how the scenery evolves.  Ditto telegraph poles, but that's another topic.  Anyway, I found this archive of Burma Shave jingles, nicely organized by year:

http://burma-shave.org/jingles/

If you are a stickler for prototype accuracy, now you can sleep well knowing your roadside advertisements are appropriate for your era.  Whether or not they fit your locale is up to you to determine.  Perhaps the book mentioned on the jingle page can help you there.  I like to know I'm close enough but I won't lose any sleep using a jingle from the wrong year, and some are funnier than others.  The selection from the 20's is limited and none are railroad related.

I hope the readers of this blog might find this site useful or at least get a chuckle from some clever ads.

Milk & Mail - Baggage Improvements

Making progress again on the Binkley Shorty Baggage.  Here are two images; the roof and its improvements, and the underbody detail.

Upgrades to the roof include a screen overlay and framing for the clerestory sides, simulated canvas covering for the roof, and drip strips over the doors.  Prior to these additions I also used square styrene stock to extend the clerestory overhang down along the curved ends of the roof.  This is a detail often missing from these cars where the modeler has to shape the bullnose ends.  Here the bullnose profile has been provided as a metal casting but it must be filed to match the width of the clerestory sides and the overhang profile extended somehow.  I precurved the styrene and attached it with cyanoacrylate adhesive.

The floor received an air tank made from dowel 'turned' in a drill and shaped with files to simulate the bands around the tank and reduce its size.  The kit came with a brass casting for the tank but I will use it on the combine.  I chose to add the brake cylinder and levers casting though the instructions don't call for it.  It is a Binkley/Red Ball part.

Next will be a little more work on the sides, adding the end railings, assembling the Walthers trucks, and priming.  After that I will apply a similar roof treatment and underbody detail to the combine.  I may just get these cars completed by Christmas...but I'm in no hurry, so we'll see.  Thanks for reading and following along with this project.

Milk & Mail - Fruit Car Primed

With the completion of the sides, ends and roof details, I could prime the body for the Fruit Car.  I elected to upgrade the fascia and door track and add a slide bar but chose to keep the original door stop even though it is a bit oversized.  Whenever possible I like to use original kit parts.  For the damaged end I had to bend a new pair of railings and replace the broken two-part sill casting.  I covered the roof with tissue paper to represent canvas and replaced the roofwalk with 2x6 planks and 2x2 supports.

The underside was primed first with my usual Dark Walnut while the rest of the car received gray.  The trucks will be borrowed from one of the other two cars in this train, that is, either the shorty baggage or shorty combine from Binkley.  I will replace the wheelsets and reassemble the metal trucks with Loctite Weld.  I have been able to unsolder these vintage trucks with some success, but not without damage.  Next I'm going to try and simply cut them apart with a motor tool.  The original car rode on arch bars with flat springs.  I think it will fit better with a passenger consist on wood beam passenger trucks.